Nov 2023
Karnataka & Kerala
4 days · 1100 km · Solo · BMW R nineT Scrambler
Route
Bangalore → Halebeedu → Belur → Chikmagalur → Mudigere → Charmady Ghat → Mangaluru → Bekal → Taliparamba → Iritty → Mananthavady → Wayanad → Sultan Bathery → Bandipur Tiger Reserve → Mysore → Bangalore


Highlights

The stunning Hoysalesvara Temple, 12th century, Halebidu. A world heritage site.

The equally amazing Chennakeshava Temple, 12th century, Belur. A world heritage site.

Riding through the coffee plantations and estates of Chikmagalur and Mudigere.

Crossing the Western Ghats at Charmady Ghat. (Btw, Western Ghats are also a world heritage site.)

Riding on beach side roads in Bekal.

Riding across rivers and through hills, forests and tea plantations from Bekal to Wayanad.

Riding through Bandipur forest at dawn.

Morning safari in the Bandipur National Park.


Food Along the Way

Donne biryani and Town Canteen dosa in Chikmagalur.

Prawns and fish at Giri Manja's in Mangaluru.

Beef paratto, kadala kari puttu, al faham chicken and biryani in Kerala.

Meals at RRR in Mysore.

And all the coffee breaks along the highway before eventually bringing the bike home.


Source
Original thread on X, archived below.


Notes from the Ride

Four days and 1100 km, on a loop that takes in two world heritage sites, a mountain range, a beach and a tiger reserve without ever getting much more than a day's ride from Bangalore.

It starts with the Hoysalas. Halebidu and Belur, both twelfth century, both carved end to end so densely that it takes a while to work out what you are looking at. Then coffee country through Chikmagalur and Mudigere, and the drop down Charmady Ghat to the coast — the Western Ghats are a world heritage site in their own right, and crossing them in an afternoon feels a little like cheating.

The coast gives you Mangaluru and then Bekal, where the road runs along beside the beach. Turning inland again, the third day climbs back up through rivers, forest and tea into Wayanad.

And then Bandipur on the last morning, riding through the reserve before it was properly light and going back in on a safari afterwards.

Underneath all of that is the real reason to do this ride, which is the eating. Donne biryani in Chikmagalur. Prawns at Giri Manja's in Mangaluru. Beef paratto and kadala kari puttu in Kerala. Meals at RRR in Mysore, and enough highway coffee to get home on.

Four days is not long. It was enough.


Tweets from the Road
Earlier this month, I spent a few days riding in Karnataka and Kerala. I started riding out of Bangalore and here are some of the highlights from the ride.
R nineT Scrambler loaded up outside Bangalore
Rider in jacket and sunglasses on the first morning
The stunning Hoysalesvara Temple, 12th century, Halebidu. A world heritage site.
Carved porch of the Hoysalesvara temple, Halebidu
Woman in a sari before the carved friezes, Halebidu
The Hoysalesvara temple seen from the lawn, Halebidu
Carved guardian figure on the temple wall, Halebidu
The equally amazing Chennakeshava Temple, 12th century, Belur. A world heritage site.
The golden gopuram gateway at Belur
Priest in white walking past the Chennakeshava temple, Belur
Narasimha relief carved on the temple wall, Belur
Relief of a deity above a fallen elephant, Belur
Riding through the coffee plantations and estates of Chikmagalur and Mudigere.
Tall silver oaks shading coffee bushes, Chikmagalur
The Scrambler on an estate road under the shade trees
Estate lane past tiled cottages towards the hills
Kudregundi Estate sign among bamboo and coffee
Crossing the Western Ghats at Charmady Ghat. (Btw, Western Ghats are also a world heritage site.)
Ghat road curving below a grassy hillside, no feeding sign
The road cut into the cliff on Charmady Ghat
Ridges of the Western Ghats receding into haze
The Scrambler parked at a viewpoint above the Ghats
Riding on beach side roads in Bekal.
Handlebar view down a palm-lined lane to the sea at Bekal
Riding across rivers and through hills, forests and tea plantations from Bekal to Wayanad.
River braiding through scrub and forest on the way inland
Riding through Bandipur forest at dawn.
Empty road curving through dark forest at first light, Bandipur
Morning safari in the Bandipur National Park.
Herd of spotted deer grazing under a big tree, Bandipur
Some amazing meals along the road - Donne biryani and Town Canteen dosa in Chikmagalur.
Donne biryani in a banana leaf cup with a boiled egg
Prawns and fish at Giri Manja's in Mangaluru.
Dining room at Giri Manja's, Mangaluru
Beef paratto, kadala kari puttu, al faham chicken and biryani in Kerala.
Beef fry with parotta and curry on a steel platter
Meals at RRR in Mysore.
Frontage of Hotel RRR, Mysore
And all the coffee breaks along the highway before eventually bringing the bike home :-)
Empty tables at a highway coffee stop
And that's a wrap. Bangalore - Halebeedu - Belur - Chikmagalur - Mudigere - Charmady Ghat - Mangaluru - Bekal - Taliparamba - Iritty - Mananthavady - Wayanad - Sultan Bathery - Bandipur Tiger Reserve - Mysore - Bangalore. 1100 km. 4 days of riding solo. Joy.
And here's the route map of the ride.
Google Maps route from Bangalore through Karnataka and Kerala and back
Day Route Distance Highlights of the day Night stay
01 Bangalore → Halebeedu → Belur → Chikmagalur 290 km The 12th century Hoysalesvara temple at Halebidu, then the Chennakeshava at Belur. Donne biryani and Town Canteen dosa in Chikmagalur. Treebo, Chikmagalur
02 Chikmagalur → Mudigere → Charmady Ghat → Mangaluru → Bekal 240 km Coffee plantations through Chikmagalur and Mudigere, then the Western Ghats crossing at Charmady. Prawns and fish at Giri Manja's in Mangaluru. Beach side roads at Bekal. Bekal Home Stay and Resorts, Bekal
03 Bekal → Taliparamba → Iritty → Mananthavady → Wayanad → Sultan Bathery 230 km Across rivers and through hills, forests and tea plantations into Wayanad. Beef paratto, kadala kari puttu, al faham chicken and biryani in Kerala. Le Coffee Resort, Sultan Bathery
04 Sultan Bathery → Bandipur Tiger Reserve → Mysore → Bangalore 320 km Through Bandipur forest at dawn, then a morning safari in the national park. Meals at RRR in Mysore, and coffee breaks along the highway home. Home